Compagnoni Pass Loop (38km)

The Compagnoni Pass Loop is a challenging 38 kilometre circuit nestled deep within the Kanangra-Boyd wilderness, part of the greater Blue Mountains National Park in New South Wales. Generally tackled over three days, this route weaves together steep climbs, remote plateaus, and rugged ridgelines, offering a true taste of backcountry walking for those with solid bushwalking experience and confidence navigating in less-defined terrain.

Setting out from the Kanangra Walls carpark, the track leads towards the lookout, which offers a sweeping view across Kanangra Gorge. From here, the trail stretches out across open country before narrowing and dropping into more remote ground. The early section out to Cottage Rock allows for quick progress, with open views making it a pleasant place to pause. Beyond that, the trail passes the Roots Ridge turn-off and continues its descent along Gingra Range, which gradually drops towards the Kowmung River. This river crossing marks a natural point to refill water bottles, as it's typically the last dependable source until reaching Ti Willa Creek the following day.

The climb up Willa Spur begins immediately after crossing the river and is one of the most physically demanding parts of the route. Gaining around 650 metres in elevation, this section can feel unrelenting with a heavy pack, and while it lacks technical difficulty, it requires stamina and pacing. Soon after, walkers arrive at Compagnoni Pass, where the trail steepens again into a short scramble. A fixed chain and metal spikes have been installed here to aid in the ascent, though the rock surface can be treacherous when strewn with dry Casuarina needles, which tend to build up along this route. Careful footwork and good grip are essential.

Once above the pass, the landscape opens out again onto the Ti Willa Plateau, a broad, relatively level expanse that provides a welcome break from the climbing. It’s quiet country, dotted with low vegetation and the occasional cluster of trees, and it leads to 100 Man Cave, a large and well-known overhang beneath the north-west rim of the plateau. The cave offers ample space for shelter, and in poor weather it provides valuable protection with room to dry out gear and a fireplace tucked well back under the rock. Water can usually be sourced from Ti Willa Creek, located just below the cave, although as always in remote areas it’s best to treat any collected water before drinking.

From here, the track winds northward and follows a knife-edged series of peaks known to bushwalkers as Rip, Rack, Roar and Rumble. The names are colourful but the navigation is fairly straightforward, as a well-worn footpad continues along the ridge towards Mount Cloudmaker. Although narrow in places, the ridgeline walking is rewarding and provides a sense of isolation that’s hard to come by on more trafficked trails.

The final day is spent returning to Kanangra Walls, mostly along a familiar and well-used path. While undulating, this stretch is easier to follow than previous sections, and the open walking allows for consistent progress. By this point the terrain feels less wild, though no less beautiful, and it makes for a satisfying end to a rugged, rewarding circuit that showcases the diversity and scale of the southern Blue Mountains.