Western Arthurs Traverse A-K Hike (67km)

The Western Arthurs Traverse (A-K) is a grueling backpacking adventure that takes hikers through the heart of Tasmania's Southwest National Park. Renowned for its challenging terrain, unpredictable weather, and breathtaking scenery, the traverse is a true test of physical and mental fortitude. For those who dare to embark on this epic journey, the rewards are immense. The traverse offers unparalleled views of the jagged peaks, pristine lakes, and lush valleys that make up the Western Arthurs Range. Along the way, hikers will encounter a diverse range of flora and fauna, including towering eucalypts, delicate wildflowers, and elusive marsupials.

The full 79km Western Arthur Range Traverse usually takes somewhere between 9-10 days. This shorter version, the Western Arthurs A-K (Alpha Moraine to Kappa Moraine) is an anticlockwise circuit hike commencing, and ending at Scotts Peak Dam Tasmania. This is a half traverse of the Western Arthur Range, exiting the range at Mount Scorpio. The shorter traverse is typically completed in 6-8 days, with hikers carrying all their own food, water, and camping gear. The days are long and demanding, with hikers often ascending and descending thousands of meters in elevation. The terrain is unforgiving, with hikers navigating through thickets of scrub, boulder fields, and exposed ridgelines.

The track is steep, rough and at times dangerous. The weather in the Southwest National Park is notoriously unpredictable, and hikers can expect to encounter all four seasons in a single day. From scorching heat to driving rain, the conditions can change rapidly, making it essential to be prepared for anything. Despite the challenges, the Western Arthurs Traverse is an unforgettable experience. The sense of accomplishment that comes from completing the traverse is immense, and the memories made will last a lifetime.

If you are looking for a challenging and rewarding backpacking adventure, the Western Arthurs Traverse is the perfect choice. With its stunning scenery, demanding terrain, and unpredictable weather, the traverse is sure to test your limits and leave you with a newfound appreciation for the raw beauty of Tasmania's wilderness.

Possible itineraries

I'd recommend you plan your own itinerary based on how many days you have available and what the weather is forecast to be. As a guide only, I have prepared two alternate itineraries, taking 6 and 7 days respectively. You will find many different versions online so take them all as a guide and plan what suits you best. The reason for this is the recommendation you try to cover as much distance each day depending on weather conditions. If the weather is fine, you may be better of pushing on to an alternate campsite.

6 day option

• Scotts Peak Dam to base of Alpha Moraine: 12km (approx 5hrs)
• Base of Alpha Moraine to Lake Oberon: 10km (approx 9hrs)
• Lake Oberon to High Moor: 5km (approx 7hrs)
• High Moor to Haven Lake: 5km (approx 7hrs)
• Haven Lake to Junction Creek Campground: 20km (approx 9hrs)
• Junction Creek Campground to Scotts Peak Dam: 8km (approx 3.5hrs)

7 day option

• Scotts Peak Dam to Junction Creek : 8km (approx 3.5hrs)
• Junction Creek Campground to Lake Cygnus: 9km (approx 6.5hrs)
• Lake Cygnus to Lake Oberon: 5km (approx 6hrs)
• Lake Oberon to High Moor: 5km (approx 6.5hrs)
• High Moor to Haven Lake: 5km (approx 7hrs)
• Haven Lake to Junction Creek Campground: 20km (approx 9hrs)
• Junction Creek Campground to Scotts Peak Dam: 8km (approx 3.5hrs)

Trip Notes (7 day A-K traverse)

Day 1 – Huon Campground to Junction Creek
8.5 km, 3-4 hours

The track to Junction Creek is clearly marked, featuring gentle hills and multiple creek crossings, which can become challenging or impassable during heavy rains due to the lack of infrastructure. The track can be extremely muddy, so to protect the vegetation, walk through the mud. The campsite at Junction Creek is prone to flooding in heavy rain, but drier spots are available south of the creek.

Ensure all gear is checked before starting. The trail begins at the walkers' registration booth, leading to the Port Davey Track (sometimes called McKays Track). After passing through the tree line, the environment shifts to a shady forest with myrtle beech, sassafras, and eucalypts. The forest floor is covered with moss and leaf litter, and the path winds through undulating terrain.

For the first kilometre, the track alternates between forest and buttongrass plains before reaching vast moorlands stretching towards Mt Hesperus. These moorlands are characterised by stunted banksia, waratah, and swamp heath. The muddy trail, with small streams and deep pools, eventually leads to Junction Creek, the first potential campsite 8.5 kilometres from the trailhead.

Day 2 – Junction Creek to Lake Cygnus
9 km, 6-7 hours

The second day’s journey from Junction Creek to Lake Cygnus begins at the track junction, following the Port Davey Track towards the Western Arthur Range. The trail starts on flat terrain but soon ascends steeply up Alpha Moraine, leading to the crest of the range and an exposed ridge. After crossing a moor and passing below Mount Hesperus, some boulder hopping and rock scrambling are required. The trail then descends steeply to Lake Cygnus, where a right turn at the junction leads to the campsite.

The track navigates through a gully to the first junction, where Port Davey intersects with McKays Track. Continuing towards Alpha Moraine, the rugged Arthur Range becomes more prominent as the muddy trail winds southwest. The second junction marks the start of the Moraine A Track, which ascends Alpha Moraine towards Mount Hesperus. At the base of Alpha Moraine, a small stream with a sandy beach provides a final opportunity to refill water supplies or camp if needed, though no facilities are available.

Crossing the stream, the challenging ascent of Alpha Moraine begins, offering stunning views of Mount Anne and Lake Pedder. At the peak of the moraine, the Western Arthurs Traverse officially starts, revealing the dramatic landscape of the Arthur Range.

The trail continues beneath the western face of Mt Hesperus, then descends into the saddle above Lake Fortuna. After a final climb towards Capella Crag, the first view of Lake Cygnus appears, nestled in a deep glacial cirque. The descent to Lake Cygnus is steep but aided by manmade stairs and switchbacks, ending at a coarse white beach by the lake.

Lake Cygnus offers a refreshing, though cold, swim in favourable weather. The campsite, sheltered on three sides by a rugged ridgeline, features two wooden tent platforms and additional space on black mats or the beach. Water can be sourced from the lake or nearby streams with filtration. An open toilet is located south of the tent platforms, among the trees.

Day 3 - Lake Cygnus to Lake Oberon
5 km, 5-6 hours

On Day 3, the route from Lake Cygnus to Lake Oberon begins with a climb back to the track junction before heading southeast along the exposed crest of the Western Arthur Range. The rocky path passes Mount Hayes and involves steep climbs, rock scrambling, and navigating gullies. A junction below Mount Orion offers a right turn for the steep descent to the Lake Oberon campsite.

Morning sunlight may reveal the slopes as you prepare for the day. Water can be replenished at a creek below Square Lake, about halfway along the route, reducing the need to carry large amounts. The trail departs from Lake Cygnus with views over Bathurst Harbour and the southern ranges. It follows a rocky path beneath Mount Hayes, descending steeply and winding through a shaded chute, eventually leading to a saddle with views back towards Mount Hayes and onward to Procyon Peak.

The trail traverses the western face of Procyon Peak and descends towards Square Lake, where a stream provides the day’s only fresh water. After replenishing supplies, the rough trail ascends sharply, rewarding you with stunning views of quartzite spires and alpine lakes.

Cresting the saddle between Mount Orion and Mount Sirius offers the first view of Lake Oberon. The final descent is steep and challenging, requiring rock scrambling and careful footing. The trail then enters a forest of pandani, myrtle, and scoparia, with boardwalks guiding the way to Lake Oberon.

The Lake Oberon campsite is nestled in a deep glacial cirque, with towering quartzite spires and streams flowing toward the lake. The water is warmer than other lakes, making it ideal for a refreshing swim. The campsite features four tent platforms, shaded by moss-covered trees, and a sandy cove for additional tents. An open toilet is located in the forest, and water can be sourced from the river, though filtration is recommended.

Day 4 - Lake Oberon to High Moor
5 km, 5-7 hours

The route from Lake Oberon to High Moor is increasingly challenging, with rougher terrain, steep climbs, and exposed ridges. This section requires extensive climbing, scrambling, and pack-hauling, with navigation relying on intermittent rock cairns. Water is scarce, so carrying enough to reach Haven Lake is essential. Attempt this segment only in favorable weather and if you have experience.

After Lake Oberon, the trail ascends towards Mount Pegasus, passing a tarn before a treacherous section near the summit, requiring pack-hauling. The route then descends into a steep gully beneath a buttress, where large boulders hide deep gaps, posing significant hazards.

Climbing towards Mount Pegasus signals a day full of technical challenges. Reliable water sources between Lake Oberon and High Moor are nonexistent, so start with a full day's supply. Mobile reception is limited to high points like Mount Sirius.

The ascent from Lake Oberon heads southeast towards Mount Pegasus, where rock cairns guide you up a boulder wall. Packs may need to be passed up to manage the climb. The trail skirts a cliff base, avoiding any exposed vertical climbs. After a short reprieve, the path narrows into a cave formed by boulders, requiring careful navigation.

The descent from Mount Pegasus involves white quartzite rocks and dense shrubs, with views of Lake Uranus and Mount Capricorn. Cairns guide the way through misleading paths. After scrambling up Mount Capricorn, the descent involves scaling a steep, shrub-covered cliff using branches for support.

Reaching the saddle below brings a sense of accomplishment. The final stretch to High Moor is more manageable, ending at a boardwalk leading to the campsite.

High Moor campsite, beneath Mount Columba, offers sweeping views over the Arthur Range. The campsite features an open toilet, a small stream for water, and two tent platforms connected by boardwalks. Up to nine tents can fit on the platforms, though it can get cozy. A summit of Mount Columba at sunset provides a spectacular end to the day, with golden light over the Arthur Range.

Day 5 - High Moor to Haven Lake
5 km, 6-7 hours

After leaving High Moor, the trail leads to the Beggary Bumps, the most challenging section of the Western Arthurs Range. The Tilted Chasm is particularly daunting, requiring careful navigation and possibly pack-hauling. There are no reliable water sources between High Moor and Haven Lake, so carrying sufficient water is essential.

The day starts with a climb onto the jagged Beggary Bumps, quickly transitioning into a steep descent through a shaded chute lined with woolly tea trees and pandani. The trail then traverses above Lake Ganymede, with horizontal trees aiding the steep slope. After passing through gnarled trees, you reach the Tilted Chasm, a notorious descent between damp granite slabs, where careful navigation is crucial.

Past the Tilted Chasm, the trail continues towards The Dragon, with a fun scramble near the summit followed by another steep descent through gnarled trees and boulders. After this, the trail reaches a saddle beneath The Dragon, offering a view of the jagged Beggary Bumps, emphasizing the difficulty of the previous section. The trail then continues along the ridgeline towards Mount Taurus, navigating more exposed boulders and rutted slopes.

Before reaching Mount Taurus, the trail passes a final unnamed peak with views of two lakes on either side of the Beggary Bumps, offering a good break spot. The final descent before Mount Taurus includes an awkward boulder drop, best navigated using tree limbs for support.

The climb onto Mount Taurus is the last peak before reaching Haven Lake, which comes into view after descending its eastern shoulder. A final tricky descent between boulders leads to the shrub-filled slope towards the lake.

Haven Lake campsite is a welcome sight, offering four platforms for two tents each and an open drop toilet. Water is available from the lake, but filtration is advised.

Day 6 - Haven Lake to Junction Creek
20 km, 8-10 hours

After leaving Haven Lake, the trail remains rough, steep, and exposed until Lake Sirona. Beyond Lake Sirona, the ridgeline broadens, offering a less strenuous but still exposed walk before ascending Mount Scorpio. The day ends with a long descent down Kappa Moraine to Arthur Plains, where walkers should prepare for muddy conditions, creek crossings, and weather-sodden buttongrass.

The trail begins with a climb out of Haven Lake's cirque, offering views of the previous day's peaks. The ascent to the eastern saddle is aided by steps and grippy rock, leading to a precarious slope with technical hiking through gnarled trees and over white marble boulders toward Lake Sirona.

The trail descends over loose shale into a sloping meadow with views of golden slopes, azure lakes, and the Eastern Arthurs. After turning north, a steep, exposed descent over broken boulders brings hikers to Lake Sirona. The final challenge involves shimmying between two boulders before dropping onto a slanted rock.

Lake Sirona, nestled in a saddle and fed by Mount Scorpio's streams, offers a chance to replenish water supplies. The trail then ascends gently through golden meadows to Mount Scorpio's rocky peak. The final exposed slab climb to the summit is less daunting than it appears.

From Mount Scorpio, a gruelling descent down Kappa Moraine begins, steeply losing elevation with views of Lake Vesta, Lake Juno, and Promontory Lake below Carina Peak. The trail levels out slightly before reaching Arthur Plains, where the terrain flattens but often becomes muddy, especially after rain. Rusted stakes guide the way across the buttongrass plains to Seven Mile Creek.

The approach to Seven Mile Creek can be challenging, especially in overgrown vegetation or at night. Crossing the shallow creek is best done with shoes and socks removed. A small clearing near the creek can serve as an undesignated campsite, but proper waste disposal is essential.

From Seven Mile Creek, the trail follows orange arrows northwest across the boggy Arthur Plains. The moorlands, prone to boggy conditions, make gaiters and long pants advisable. A shaded section along the traverse conceals Wullyawa Creek, where a small clearing offers space for a few tents. After crossing the creek, the trail briefly passes through a moss-carpeted forest before returning to the open plains.

Finally, the trail reaches Junction Creek, where a campsite in a dry eucalypt forest offers a rest spot with open spaces for tents and an open drop toilet. Care is needed when selecting a tent site, as fallen trees and extended limbs can pose hazards, especially in high winds.

Day 7 - Junction Creek to Huon Campground
8.5 km, 3-4 hours

After a restful night at Junction Creek, the final leg of the Western Arthurs Traverse retraces the path back to Scotts Peak and the welcome relief of a hot shower. The return journey, though familiar, feels different as the trail gradually descends from the rugged heights.

The path through the myrtle forest becomes easier, and the kilometres pass more quickly than on the first day. Anticipation of the journey's end adds new energy, with occasional glimpses of the finish through the dense forest.

The boot-cleaning station at the forest's edge marks the final steps, leaving a lasting impression of the rugged beauty and personal achievement of completing one of Tasmania’s most demanding hikes.