Immersing Ourselves in the Western Arthurs: A Six-Day Odyssey

Day One:

Baptism by Fire

Years of dreaming and meticulous planning brought us to this very moment. The promise of adventure etched in the majestic peaks and hidden valleys lay ahead.

Darren and Julie Edwards

Shaded forest of myrtle beech, sassafras and eucalypts.

Boardwalk crossing the vast moorlands.

The initial excitement of the well-maintained track soon gave way to a different challenge. The ground became soft and muddy underfoot, testing our balance as we navigated the boggy plains. The vastness of the landscape unfolded before us, revealing the jagged peaks of the Arthurs that would be our companions for the next five days. From this vantage point, the sheer scale of the challenge ignited a mix of nervousness and determination within us.

After a day of exertion that pushed our legs, and uncertainty about the weather conditions testing our resolve, the rutted trail finally led us to Junction Creek Campground, a tranquil haven nestled amongst ancient trees 9.5 kilometres from the trailhead. Here, we pitched our tent, the sound of gurgling water a calming prelude to the foreboding sentinels that would soon dominate our senses. As dusk settled, a mixture of nervous excitement played in our minds for the adventures that awaited us deeper in the heart of the Western Arthurs.

A clear warning of the challenges ahead.

Mud begins to infiltrate the trail.

Julie crossing Junction Creek.

Junction Creek Campground.

Day Two:

Face-to-Face with Giants

Day two brought us face-to-face with the true majesty of the Arthurs.

Looking across Lake Cygnus & the Arthur Range

The well-defined but often muddy track led us on a scenic journey, flanked by vibrant yellow buttongrass plains. The air buzzed with unseen insects, and the distant peaks beckoned us forward. The rugged Arthur Range, like slumbering giants, gradually revealed their imposing stature with each step.

The seemingly relentless climb of Alpha Moraine loomed before us. We began our ascent, and the verdant forest floor quickly gave way to a rocky, windswept terrain. Each step was a challenge, but the reward was a constantly unfolding panorama behind us. Crystal-clear glacial lakes reflected the cerulean sky, and the towering, craggy peaks pierced the clouds like celestial spears.

Finally, after a slow and unrelenting climb, that gave us a sense of what was to come, we reached the peak of the moraine. Here, at the official beginning of the Western Arthurs Traverse, a sense of excitement washed over us. The landscape held a formidable beauty that fuelled our tired legs with renewed energy. We looked over our shoulders to see the trail we had walked snaking across the plains below. A spark of curiosity ignited within us – what adventures awaited over the next five days?

Crossing vibrant yellow buttongrass plains.

Julie ascending Alpha Moraine.

Relentless climb of Alpha Moraine.

The landscape held a formidable beauty.

Navigating the stepping stones beneath Mt Hesperus’ western face, we covered the final section with relative ease, often pausing to soak in the jaw-dropping views. As we ventured deeper into the range, the panorama became even more spectacular. Patterned quartzite peaks protruded from yellow slopes adorned with vibrant purple irises and white alpine flowers.

Skirting Capella Crag, the towering peak seemed to hold its breath, guarding the secret that lay beyond. Rounding a bend in the path, the world opened to reveal a sight that stole our breath. Lake Cygnus, a jewel nestled in a 120-meter-deep cirque, shimmered like a polished sapphire. Its surface, stained a hint of amber by tannins, reflected the awe-inspiring peaks that surrounded it. The air, crisp and clean, carried the faint scent of adventure. Finally, after a day of exertion, and a descent that was steep yet manageable, we stood beside the lake’s glistening water.

Nestled beside the lake’s tranquil waters amidst a landscape sculpted by ancient glaciers, we made camp. The campsite offered a welcome respite after a challenging day, with tent platforms and an open toilet tucked amidst the stunted myrtle forests. The sound of lapping waves against the shore lulled us to sleep, a gentle melody after a day that tested our strength and filled our hearts with awe.

Views over Lakes Pluto and Neptune.

Skirting the towering peak of Capella Crag.

Lake Cygnus nestled in a 120-meter-deep cirque.

Relaxing at Lake Cygnus Campground.

Day Three:

Challenges and Beauty

Day Three unfolded like a series of challenges, each wrapped with the reward of breathtaking scenery.

Looking across Square Lake from Mount Sirius

After climbing away from Lake Cygnus, we began our journey with a rocky ascent up Mount Hayes, pushing ourselves over uneven terrain. Reaching the summit brought a heart-pounding sense of accomplishment as a panoramic view of the majestic Arthur Range unfolded before us.

Descending a shallow gully from Mount Hayes, our legs protested with each step, a dull ache settling into our calves.  Despite the burn, a sense of exhilaration bubbled within us, fuelled by the accomplishment of reaching the summit. Crossing a gentle saddle, we tackled another stiff climb, each step drawing us closer to a higher vantage point. The view from the summit unfolded before us like a breathtaking masterpiece—the sprawling turquoise expanse of Lake Ceres shimmering in the distance, a stark contrast to the rugged peaks that framed it.

Square Lake, surrounded by imposing bluffs, offered a welcome respite. Trickling streams provided a chance to top up our water supplies, and the cool, inviting water tempted us for a quick but refreshing dip. The allure of a side trip to Mount Orion was strong, but the breathtaking views from the summit of Sirius beckoned us forward, promising a panoramic reward without the additional exertion.

The approach to Mount Hayes.

The jagged sentinels of the Arthur Range.

Following the rugged walking track.

Towering quartzite peaks of the Arthur Range.

But the day wasn’t over yet. A final push awaited—a steep descent to Lake Oberon. A ranger at the trailhead had told us that if we found the descent into Lake Oberon beyond our comfort zone, it was best to turn back. 

Rounding a bend, a single orange arrow jutted out, pointing not to a gentle path but down a sheer, rocky incline. Surely, this couldn’t be our descent. A quick glance at the trail ahead confirmed our concerns. It was the only way down. The final descent certainly offered a taste of what was to come. It was steep, technical, demanding, and required careful navigation. We loved every moment of it, and the anticipation of our destination spurred us on.

Emerging from the descent, we were greeted by a scene of tranquillity. Lake Oberon, nestled amidst rich vegetation, shimmered serenely. A small, inviting beach beckoned, and the rhythmic murmur of a nearby stream promised a peaceful night’s sleep. Here, we pitched our tent, weary but exhilarated from a day of pushing our limits and revelling in the wild beauty of the Western Arthurs.

Looking west over Square Lake and Procyon Peak.

Commencing the descent to Lake Oberon.

Surrounded by a wall of giants.

Haven of Lake Oberon.

Day Four:

Reaching High Moor

Leaving Lake Oberon’s paradise behind, we knew today would be a test of endurance and skill.

Looking back across the Arthur Range

With no reliable water source until High Moor, we shouldered heavy packs filled for the entire day’s journey. Our path ascended out of the cirque, offering a final farewell view of Lake Oberon before continuing towards Mount Pegasus—our first technical challenge.

Rock cairns guiding us vanished abruptly. A sheer rock face rose before us, like a fortress guarding its secrets, its surface a canvas of uneven cracks and holds. This intimidating wall seemed a world away from the reassuringly gentler trail that had guided us until now. In the distance, the excited shouts of another group confirmed we were on the right path, although the sounds offered little comfort.

After carefully examining the handholds and footholds, I took the lead, scrambling upwards with a mix of adrenaline and focus. Hauling packs up this section seemed risky, so I secured and lowered a rope for Julie. Unfortunately, her heavily loaded pack proved too much for a single pull. With unwavering determination, she tackled the ascent herself, her grit and commitment evident in every move.

Exhilaration surged as we took a moment to regroup before the fun began again! A series of imposing boulders formed a cave with a hole just large enough to squeeze through. Pack hauling was essential here, but the challenge added a touch of excitement to the day. We’d read that many people use ropes for pack hauling in this section but decided it was easier to pass the pack through.

Traversing around Lake Oberon.

The first of many challenges.

Climbing through a boulder cave.

Navigating the challenging terrain.

The descent from Mount Pegasus involved navigating down white quartzite rock and battling through dense shrubs. It was so dense in places that there was barely a trail, forcing us to choose the path of least resistance. We used the sturdy limbs of mountain pepperberry, pandani, and scoparia for balance as the incline steepened. Reaching the saddle below, we were greeted with the majestic sight of Lake Uranus nestled in the distance. A reward for our efforts.

The day’s final climb awaited – a challenging scramble across steep rocky slabs and over grey boulders leading to the summit of Mount Capricorn. Reaching the top, we were met with a breathtaking view. We looked back at the precarious white trail snaking across the ridgeline, its jagged rocky sentinels reaching toward the sky. It was a moment of immense satisfaction, realising how far we had come.

The descent from Mount Capricorn defied logic. A chaotic jumble of obstacles on steep terrain sent shivers down our spines. Often appearing insurmountable, we wondered if there truly was a route to follow. We carefully navigated down the eastern slope, a mix of loose boulders and spongy dirt steps, using overhanging branches for support. Reaching the saddle below, a wave of accomplishment washed over us as we looked back at the seemingly impossible path we had followed.

The final stretch to High Moor felt like a breeze in comparison. The partially manicured trail offered some respite, although we still had a reasonable climb ahead before reaching the boardwalks leading to the camp.

Here, at High Moor, nestled beneath the promise of a fiery sunset on Mount Columba, we awaited the final act of another challenging yet rewarding day. The sprawling views over the Arthur Range were nothing short of spectacular. Fellow hikers told us that a short climb to the summit of Mount Columba at sunset was a must-do. The thought of witnessing the sun dipping below the horizon and casting a golden glow on the rugged peaks filled us with anticipation. Here, at High Moor, we awaited the final act of another challenging yet rewarding day on the Western Arthurs Traverse.

Into the heart of the Arthurs.

Battling through dense shrubs.

Climbing away from Lake Uranus.

Traversing a slippery slope.

Trail winding across the plateau.

Sun setting over the Arthur Range.

Day Five:

Fear to Exhilaration

Day Five brought us face-to-face with the legendary Beggary Bumps, a series of gnarled rocky peaks that lived up to their name.

Looking across the legendary Beggary Bumps

In true Western Arthur form, our day began with a challenging, almost vertical descent. A long, shaded chasm, choked with loose rock, swallowed us whole as we descended using woolly tea trees and pandani for support. Emerging from this first test and increasingly growing in confidence, we started to traverse along the impossibly beautiful southern mountainside above Lake Ganymede. Here, horizontal trees provided natural hand and footholds as we navigated the sheer slope.

Tilted Chasm, the legendary crux of the traverse, loomed ahead. We’d devoured countless descriptions of its difficulty during our planning, building it up in our minds. However, after battling through the relentless challenges of the past four days, the Chasm held a different kind of thrill. Descending between the slick granite slabs, we relied on precise footwork and a firm grip on loose and mossy handholds. Tilted Chasm wasn’t the insurmountable beast we’d anticipated and feared; it was strangely exhilarating – a test of skill and focus rewarded with a huge sense of accomplishment.

Emerging from the cool embrace of the Tilted Chasm, a breathtaking panorama greeted us. A horizontal traverse stretched across the impossibly steep southern slope above Lake Ganymede. We inched along a path that clung dangerously to the mountainside. A sheer drop to the turquoise lake yawned below, sending shivers down our spines. Gnarled and windswept horizontal shrubs, like petrified claws, offered precarious hand and footholds.

Julie, usually unflappable, disappeared around a bend in the path. A moment later, I found her on the other side, pale and trembling. Realising her perilous position on a razor-thin ledge sent a wave of fear crashing down. With a hug and a few reassuring words, I helped steady her nerves. We took a deep breath together, the breathtaking beauty momentarily overshadowed by the raw fear of the situation.

Descending Tilted Chasm.

Our track is along the sheer face (somewhere).

Skirting one of many rocky outcrops.

The infamous Beggary Bumps.

We pressed on as the challenges continued, and a strange sense of exhilaration took hold. A fun scramble led us towards The Dragon, a rocky pinnacle guarding the path. Technical descents filled with gnarled trees and boulders followed. Despite the formidable footing and lingering fear, this section offered a unique kind of thrill. The stunted forest, sculpted by the elements, held a strange beauty. The breathtaking panorama had returned to full focus, now tinged with the satisfaction of overcoming our fears.

After what felt like an eternity battling the Beggary Bumps, we finally reached a saddle beneath The Dragon. Looking back at the jagged peaks and hanging valleys, it was hard to believe we had traversed that distance in such a short time.

But the technical sections weren’t over yet. The ridgeline towards Mount Taurus presented exposed slanted boulders and more steep descents. Reaching the final unnamed peak before Mount Taurus, we were rewarded with a spectacular view – two sparkling lakes flanking the Beggary Bumps. This scenic spot provided a welcome lunch break before tackling Mount Taurus’s final climb.

The final descent from Mount Taurus presented a series of daunting challenges that tested our remaining reserves – an awkward vertical drop requiring reassurance teamwork and a final tricky manoeuvre between steep boulders. However, the sight of Haven Lake nestled between two grey peaks spurred us on.

Emerging onto the shrub-filled shore, the day’s fatigue faded as we reached this peaceful haven. Here, at Haven Lake, a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear water was the perfect ending to a day of overcoming technical, physical, and emotional challenges and revelling in the wild beauty of the Western Arthurs.

Awe inspiring views at every turn.

Typical terrain on the traverse.

Our campsite at Haven Lake.

Fiery sunset on Mount Taurus

Day Six:

A Bittersweet Farewell

This day wouldn’t just be a long walk but a test of our remaining reserves. The Western Arthurs, it seemed, weren’t finished with us.

Soaking in our last views of the Range

Originally planned for two days, our final leg became a single, long trek. Knowing we had the most distance to cover today, we set off early from Haven Lake, leaving behind the serenity of the glacial cirque. The initial climb offered evolving views of the peaks we had traversed, a constant reminder of our accomplishments.

Reaching a wide-open field, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view. Golden slopes plunged towards azure lakes, and the panorama stretched out to encompass the Eastern Arthurs and the remaining peaks of the Western Arthurs Traverse. Taking a moment to absorb this scene, we continued along the white rock trail toward the summit of an unnamed peak. A nagging suspicion crept in as we navigated a rutted track to the summit. Had we been too optimistic?

A Change in Perspective:

Reaching this peak offered a breathtaking panorama but came with a sobering realisation. Stretching out before us was a daunting and seemingly technical descent of a cliff line leading to the shores of Lake Sirona. We exchanged glances, the initial excitement of reaching the peak replaced with a surge of nervous anticipation and mental fatigue. We expected something else for the final leg. Taking a deep breath, we studied the route ahead, strategising the best approach for this unexpected challenge.

This day wouldn’t just be a long walk but a test of our remaining reserves. The Western Arthurs, it seemed, weren’t finished with us. We’d expected challenges throughout our journey, but nothing quite like this relentless barrage. Every turn seemingly presented an almost impossible task, prompting exasperated cries of “Is this the right way?” and “This is tougher than the last!” In its formidable glory, the range seemed devoid of empathy for weary souls like us.

Enjoying the final views before our descent.

Golden meadows towards Mount Scorpio.

Regrouping at Sirona:

Relief washed over us as we reached the water’s edge of Lake Sirona, tinged with a grudging respect for the unforgiving landscape. We took a moment to regroup on the shore, stretching our weary legs and marvelling at the imposing peaks that framed the lake. Gazing back at the formidable descent we had just conquered, a sense of accomplishment settled in. This wasn’t just any descent; it was a testament to the raw beauty of the Western Arthurs, our teamwork, perseverance, and ability to adapt to the unexpected.

The golden meadows stretching before us towards Mount Scorpio offered a welcome change. The easy ramble let us finally relax and take in the breathtaking scenery we had traversed. Though physically demanding, this final leg presented a different kind of challenge – absorbing the vastness of the Western Arthurs and etching these memories into our hearts forever.  Knowing this was the final climb before leaving the range, we savoured each step, capturing the beauty of the landscape in photographs and silent reflection.

Facing the Final Descent:

With a final glance back at the majestic peaks of Mount Scorpio and the golden plains, we shouldered our packs and prepared for the descent down Kappa Moraine. This 3km path promised a gruelling challenge, dropping 400 meters in the first kilometre. While daunting, we knew the descent would also offer a gradual reveal of the hidden lakes nestled below Carina Peak, a sight that would hopefully distract us from our aching joints. Taking a deep breath and trusting in our skills, we began our descent, determined to tackle this final obstacle.

Finally, after what felt like a lifetime, the gradient eased, as we reached a junction. Here, a decision must be made; the longer traverse along a hint of a trail or an off-trail shortcut into the vastness of the Arthur Plains? The unforgiving terrain had squeezed every last ounce of energy from our weary legs, the shortcut it was. After some careful navigation, satisfaction and relief washed over us as we reached flat ground and began our steady trek across the plains.

Heading towards Mount Scorpio.

Descent down Kappa Moraine – views of the Western Arthurs.

Pushing Through the Plains:

The plains themselves presented a different set of challenges. Mud puddles and remnants of recent rain dotted the landscape, and we relied on rusted stakes to stay on track. Eventually, we pushed through dense, dry scrub to reach Seven Mile Creek. This shallow creek offered a chance to rest and refuel.

Refreshed and rehydrated, we followed the orange arrows away from the creek and began the final, long traverse towards Junction Creek. The scenery here was bleak compared to the past five days, with the only saving grace being the majestic Western Arthurs on the horizon. We focused on picking out landmarks from our previous days’ journeys, a reminder of the incredible journey we’d had.

Boggy mud marshes were a frequent occurrence, and we were grateful for our gaiters as we navigated the buttongrass moorlands. Finally, after encountering a hidden oasis at Wullyawa Creek, a small clearing with a pretty, moss-carpeted forest, we emerged back into the open moorland. With renewed determination, we pressed on, our sights set on the distant band of trees that signalled our approach to Junction Creek.

Anticipation was built as the familiar landscape of Junction Creek came into view. The familiar scent of eucalyptus trees, a welcome change from the dry scrub of the plains, filled the air. Finally, after reconnecting with the Port Davey Track, we started to retrace our steps back to Houn Campground, where our journey began. The well-defined path and occasional boardwalk felt almost welcoming after the rigors of the past five days.

The Physical Toll:

Our initial optimism about reaching the trailhead quickly faded. The physical toll of the past five days had finally settled in. We found ourselves in a trance, simply putting one foot in front of the other with no real sense of time or distance. Each glance at our watches revealed that only a handful of minutes had passed, stretching the seemingly endless 9.5 kilometres from Junction Creek into an eternity.

Finally reaching the trailhead, a wave of relief, exhilaration, and nostalgia washed over us. We were grateful for the opportunity to experience the magic of the Western Arthurs, the physical, emotional, and mental challenges presented, and the connection with nature we experienced amidst the shared adversity.

The journey had been more than just a hike; it had been a transformation, a constant dance between awe and exertion, a peeling back of layers to reveal the strength and resilience within each of us. A wave of emotions washed over us – relief at completing the challenging trek, pride in our accomplishment, and a deep appreciation for the raw beauty and untamed wilderness of the Western Arthurs.

View from Kappa Moraine.

Through the scrub towards Seven Mile Creek.

Beyond the Journey:

Memories Etched in Our Hearts

Perhaps the most profound impact of the trek wasn’t something we learned but something we reawakened.

View of the Arthur Range from the lower plains

Our journey wasn’t about conquering peaks; it was about finding our inner strength, trusting our instincts, and having the confidence to tackle anything the Arthur Range put in front of us. We saw landscapes that would leave most speechless, witnessed sunsets that painted the sky in a kaleidoscope of colours, and experienced nature’s humbling power and grace.

The return journey from Junction Creek Campground was bittersweet. The well-maintained track felt almost mundane after the challenges we had faced. Yet, there was a certain satisfaction in retracing our steps, revisiting in our minds the places that had tested us and, ultimately, defined our experience. Reaching the Huon Campground, the starting point of our 6-day odyssey, was a surreal experience. The familiar sights and sounds seemed unnecessary after our immersion in the wilderness.

As we drove north, leaving the Western Arthur Range in our rear-view mirror, a sense of accomplishment mingled with a tinge of sadness. We were leaving this wild and wondrous place behind, but the memories would remain etched in our hearts forever. The Western Arthurs had challenged, humbled, and ultimately empowered us. We had pushed our physical and mental limits and emerged stronger and more resilient.

Back in the hustle and bustle of everyday life, the memories of the Western Arthurs continue to inspire us. The silence of the mountains would echo in our minds, a constant reminder of the power of nature and the indomitable human spirit. We not only carry the lessons learned on the trail – perseverance, resilience, and the importance of cherishing the simple things – but a newfound sense of possibility.

The Western Arthurs had become more than a place we visited; it had become a part of who we are. This transformation wasn’t about acquiring practical skills but a deeper connection with ourselves and the natural world.

Our memories of the traverse will last forever.

A Call to Embrace the Wild

Perhaps the most profound impact of the trek wasn’t something we learned but something we reawakened – a sense of wonder and a connection to the world’s wild places. The whispers of the mountains still beckon us to return, to explore new horizons and challenge ourselves in breathtaking landscapes. 

This experience isn’t just a story; it’s an invitation.  It is an invitation to embrace the wild, test your limits, and discover the strength and resilience that lies within each of us.

Discover the Western Arthurs Traverse (A-K).

Planning Guide: Western Arthur Range Traverse

Discover the full Western Arthurs Traverse.