Hiking the Huayhuash Circuit in Peru

Trip report and images by Darren Edwards – June 2025

A Stunning Alpine Adventure

Widely considered one of the world’s most spectacular alpine treks, the Huayhuash Circuit took us deep into the heart of the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru, a place that felt both immense and unforgiving once we were on foot. Spanning roughly 120 km and crossing 12 mountain passes above 4,500 metres, the circuit delivered a remote and physically demanding walk through one of the most dramatic alpine landscapes in the Andes.

I hiked the Huayhuash Circuit with my wife, Julie, in June 2025. It was one of the most rewarding, physically, and mentally demanding walks we have done together. After completing the Walkers Haute Route in Switzerland in 2024, we were drawn to the Huayhuash as a more remote and rugged alpine experience.

This trip report is based on our 8-day guided walk and focuses on what the route felt like day to day. If you’re planning the circuit, the complete planning guide covers logistics, acclimatisation, costs, camping, and navigation.

About the Huayhuash Circuit

The Cordillera Huayhuash sits south of the Cordillera Blanca and feels far more isolated and raw. While the range is relatively compact, the terrain is relentlessly steep, with high passes crossed almost every day and very little walking below 4,000 metres.

Although the region became widely known through the story of Touching the Void, walking here feels less like visiting a famous trekking destination and more like moving through a working mountain landscape. For us, completing the circuit in 8 days was a compromise between time and ambition, but it still delivered a powerful sense of scale and immersion.

Hiking with a guided group

We chose to hike the Huayhuash Circuit as part of a guided group. At this altitude, the combination of sustained climbs and heavy packs would have significantly changed the experience, and having pack animals carry our gear allowed us to focus on the walking itself.

Independent hiking is possible and appealing for experienced, self-reliant trekkers, but it requires carrying a full multi-day load, managing navigation, and dealing with all logistics in a very remote environment. A detailed comparison of guided versus independent options is covered in the planning guide.

Acclimatising for our trek

We spent three days acclimatising in and around Huaraz before starting the circuit. Rather than resting in town, we found it far more effective to get out walking and gradually expose ourselves to higher elevations.

By the time we reached the first pass on the Huayhuash, our bodies felt reasonably well adapted, even though the weather turned poor early in the trek. These preparatory hikes made a noticeable difference to how manageable the first few days felt.

We explored the following in the three days before our trek:

1. Laguna Parón (4,200m)

Laguna Parón is a stunning turquoise lake located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, surrounded by towering snow-capped peaks. This hike, which starts at a relatively low elevation of 4,200m, offers breathtaking views of the lake and the surrounding mountains, including Mount Huandoy. The trail to Laguna Parón is a popular acclimatisation hike, as it’s a moderate climb that helps your body adjust to higher altitudes while providing one of the most scenic experiences in the region.

2. Laguna Churup (4,450m)

Laguna Churup is a relatively short but steep hike, known for its beautiful alpine scenery and the pristine, crystal-clear lake nestled at the base of Churup Mountain. This challenging trek involves a steady climb through lush vegetation before reaching the rocky path leading to the lake. The payoff is a stunning view of the turquoise waters, surrounded by dramatic cliffs and snow-capped peaks. At 4,450m, Laguna Churup is a perfect option for building altitude tolerance and enjoying a bit of wilderness before tackling the Huayhuash Circuit.

3. Laguna 69 (4,600m)

One of the most famous hikes in the Cordillera Blanca, Laguna 69 offers spectacular views of the striking blue-green waters framed by jagged peaks and glaciers. The hike is challenging, with a steady uphill climb, but it’s well worth the effort. As you approach the lake, the stunning panorama of snow-covered mountains and waterfalls creates a truly magical setting. At 4,600m, this hike provides excellent acclimatisation for those preparing for higher altitudes on the Huayhuash Circuit.

When we hiked the Huayhuash Circuit

We hiked the Huayhuash Circuit in June, which is typically considered part of the dry season. Conditions were more variable than expected, with rain on the first three days and a brief snowstorm one morning, followed by clearer weather later in the trek.

Despite the unsettled start, the trail remained passable, and the changing conditions added to the sense of being in a high, exposed mountain environment. Weather in the Andes can shift quickly, even during the best months.

Guidebooks and maps we used

We carried the Alpenvereinskarte Huayhuash 1:50,000 map and found it useful for understanding the overall layout of the range and the position of major passes and lakes. Place names sometimes differed from what locals used, but the topography was reliable.

We also referred to Peru’s Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash by Neil and Harriet Pike during planning and occasionally on the trail. While not perfect, it provided helpful context for daily distances and side trips.

How we got to the trailhead

We travelled from Australia to Peru via Santiago, flying from Melbourne to Lima with LATAM. From Lima, we initially took an overnight bus to Huaraz, which took around eight hours and cost approximately $50 AUD per person. While the bus was comfortable, weeks of travelling on rough regional roads convinced us to change plans, and we flew back from Huaraz to Lima at the end of the trip instead, for around $150 AUD per person.

Huaraz (3,050 metres) was our base for acclimatisation, and we spent several days there completing high-altitude day hikes before starting the circuit. From Huaraz, our guided trek began at Quartelhuain, which allowed us to skip a long road walk and start the hike immediately at altitude. The circuit finished at Pocpa, where transport was waiting to return us to Huaraz.

Our 8-Day Huayhuash Circuit Guided Itinerary

Here’s a look at what our 8-day trek through the stunning Huayhuash Circuit was like:

Day 1: Huaraz to Quartelhuain (4,100m) – Mitucocha (4,150m)

We began our journey with an early 4:00 am departure from Huaraz, heading to the small town of Pocpa for a quick breakfast. After a scenic and bumpy five-hour drive, we arrived at the start of the trail in Quartelhuain. The first stretch of the trek involved crossing Punta Cacanan (4,750m), our first pass, where we were treated to sweeping views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. From there, we made our way downhill towards the peaceful Laguna Mitucocha, a perfect spot to set up camp. The alpine landscape was absolutely beautiful, making the first day of hiking feel like a dream.

Day 2: Mitucocha to Carhuacocha (4,150m)

On day two, we had an exhilarating climb ahead of us. We headed towards Alcaycocha Pass (4,700m), where the views were nothing short of stunning. Looking back towards Mitucocha Lagoon and the Siula Lagoon in the distance was a highlight. As we descended from the pass, the towering peaks of Rondoy, Yerupaja Grande, and Siula Grande dominated the horizon, making the landscape even more dramatic. The day ended by the shores of Carhuacocha Lagoon, where we set up camp in one of the most awe-inspiring spots of the trek, surrounded by these massive peaks that seemed to rise right out of the water.

Day 3: Carhuacocha to Huayhuash (4,350m)

Today, we followed the edge of Carhuacocha Lagoon, taking in the incredible views of the water and the jagged mountains around us. After a few hours of hiking, we reached a viewpoint where we could see three shimmering lakes against a backdrop of towering snow-capped peaks. The highlight of the day was the steep climb up to Siula Pass (4,800m), where we were rewarded with panoramic views of Yerupaja (6,634m) and Siula Grande (6,356m). The landscape here was simply jaw-dropping, and after soaking it all in, we descended to Huayhuash, where we camped for the night.

Day 4: Huayhuash to Campo Elefantes (4,400m)

This was a tough day with a solid four-hour climb to reach Trapeze Pass (5,000m), the second-highest point of the trek. The climb was challenging, but the views from the top made it worthwhile. We were treated to breathtaking views of peaks like Trapecio, Pumarinri, and Cuyoc Jurao, which towered over us. After a long, rewarding day of hiking, we made our way down to Campo Elefantes, a serene camp spot nestled beneath the towering mountains. It was a peaceful place to rest, surrounded by the quiet beauty of the Andes.

Day 5: Campo Elefantes to Huayllapa (3,800m)

This was one of the longest days of the trek, but it was also one of the most rewarding. We started the day with a climb to San Antonio Pass (5,100m), where we were once again treated to a breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding peaks, Siula, Trapecio, Jurao, and Yerupaja all stood proud against the sky. The views were so overwhelming that they caught me by surprise, stirring up a mix of awe and emotion. After taking in the scenery, we began our descent into the Cutatambo Valley, following the river down into the remote village of Huayllapa. The quiet village was a great place to rest and reflect on the day’s journey.

Day 6: Huayllapa (3,600m) to Gashpapampa (4,300m)

After a hearty breakfast in Huayllapa, we began our long ascent through the Huatiac Valley, climbing steadily towards Tapush Pass (4,800m). The valley was stunning, with jagged peaks on either side, and the trail was remote and peaceful. As we gained altitude, the landscape became even more dramatic. After several hours of hiking, we reached our camp at Gashpapampa, where we could rest and enjoy the solitude of the high Andes. The views from camp were breathtaking, with snow-capped peaks and vast, open landscapes stretching in all directions.

Day 7: Gashpapampa to Jahuacocha (4,000m)

Today’s hike brought us to Yaucha Pass (4,800m), another highlight of the trek. The climb was steep, but the views from the top were worth every step. We could see even more of the incredible mountain scenery, with the massive peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash surrounding us. After the pass, we descended towards Jahuacocha Lagoon, a beautiful spot to set up camp for the night. The camp was serene, with the clear waters of the lagoon reflecting the surrounding peaks. It felt like the perfect way to spend our second-to-last night on the trail.

Day 8: Jahuacocha to Pocpa and back to Huaraz

The final day of the trek was bittersweet. We started with a climb to Punta Jahuacocha (4,700m), the last pass of the trek. From here, we had one final, sweeping view of the mountains we had been hiking through for the past week. It was an emotional moment, as it felt like we were saying goodbye to this incredible landscape. After soaking it all in, we made our way down to Pocpa, where we met our transport and began the journey back to Huaraz. As we drove back through the mountains, we reflected on the amazing adventure we had just experienced, one of the most unforgettable treks in the world.

Camping on the Huayhuash Circuit

All camping on the Huayhuash Circuit is done at established community-managed campsites. On our guided walk, tents were already set up when we arrived each afternoon, which was particularly welcome after long days at altitude.

Facilities are basic and exposed, and nights were consistently cold, with frost common by early evening. Some campsites felt far more dramatic than others, particularly those beside the high glacial lakes, where the scale of the surrounding peaks was impossible to ignore.

Trail conditions and navigation

The trail alternates between well-defined mule tracks, steep scree, and uneven alpine ground. Ascents and descents were often long and sustained rather than technical, but the combination of altitude and loose footing demanded constant attention.

Even on a guided walk, it was clear that navigation would be challenging in poor visibility, particularly across wide valleys where multiple animal tracks diverge. In clear weather, the route is generally intuitive, but the terrain offers little margin for complacency.

Gear that mattered most

Because we were part of a guided group, our packs were relatively light, which made a noticeable difference at altitude. Not having to carry full camping gear allowed us to maintain a steadier pace on the long climbs and recover more easily at the end of each day.

Warm layers were essential. Once the sun dropped behind the peaks, temperatures fell quickly, and most evenings involved pulling on a down jacket almost immediately on arrival at camp. Frost was common, even on clear nights.

Hiking poles proved invaluable on both ascents and descents, particularly on long, loose sections where saving the knees mattered more than speed. Reliable wet-weather gear was also critical. Despite hiking in the dry season, we experienced rain on multiple days and even a brief snowstorm, and staying dry made a big difference to comfort and morale.

Good sun protection was equally important. At altitude, the intensity of the sun was noticeable even on cooler days, and sunglasses, sunscreen, and lip balm were used constantly.

Reflections on the Huayhuash Circuit

Walking the Huayhuash Circuit was an intense and deeply moving experience. The combination of sustained altitude, cold nights, and constant climbing creates a rhythm that is both physically demanding and mentally absorbing.

Compared with the Haute Route in Switzerland, the Huayhuash felt wilder and more austere, with fewer comforts and far greater isolation. While we are still undecided which experience resonated more strongly, the self-reliance and rawness of the Huayhuash left a lasting impression.

This is not a trek for casual hikers, but for those with solid fitness, patience, and respect for high-mountain environments, it delivers some of the most powerful alpine walking we have experienced anywhere.

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